Here’s a simple fix to water loss issues…
A simple fix if you’re pool is losing water…
If your pool is losing more than about 5/8″ of water in any 24 hour period, there’s likely water loss taking place…somewhere.
Keep in mind that during summer months, it’s not uncommon for a pool to lose 1/2″ a day due to evaporation. Don’t be alarmed – it’s likely nothing abnormal.
The first step is to confirm there is a leak taking place.
Take a piece of electrical tape (or any type of colored tape that will stick to tile, pebble or your pool surface) and place it directly above the water line in your pool.
Go check the water line 24 hours later – if there’s more than 5/8″ water loss, we need to put on our “detective hat” and get to work.
Start with the most likely source of the leak. Turn the equipment on and check the backwash hose for any water coming out. It’s extremely common to break/tear a backwash o-ring (due to normal wear/tear) – this will cause water to get discharged out of the backwash valve.
Even though it may be a slow leak, it’s constantly taking place while the equipment’s turned on.
If it is the backwash o-ring that’s causing the water loss, head down to your local retailer and grab a new o-ring set (they’re typically around $10.00 for the set). When replacing the o-rings don’t just replace the faulty one…replace the entire set (there will be 2 or 3 o-rings depending on the make/manufacturer).
If you have a multi-port assembly, there will be 1 spider gasket at the very top of the backwash port.
If the loss isn't taking place at the backwash port/valve, it’s time to dive in a bit deeper.
Check for any cracks at/in the skimmer as well as any water spots throughout the yard. Although return side plumbing leaks are pretty rare – they do happen and the repair isn't fun.
Pool Anti-Freeze: There is one thing that all pools have in common from Intex pools to elaborate custom in-ground pools: After you blow the water out of your pool’s plumbing it is always better to be safe than sorry and protect the lines with Non-Toxic Pool Anti-freeze. Pour it into the skimmer, or use a funnel and hose to drain it into return lines or pool cleaner lines. Do Not use in pumps, filters, heaters or chlorinators – pipes only.
Chlorine-Free Pool Shock: Another versatile universal pool closing go-to is our oxidizing non-chlorine shock. It’s safe for any pool surface, and helps your chlorine by burning-off dead chlorine cells to create more free chlorine in your water. It will not affect your pools pH level or add calcium, binders or cyanuric acid to the water. One of the best reasons to close a pool with non-chlorine shock is that it won’t break down winter algaecide, like chlorine shock will if both are added at the same time.
Aqua Pill’s Winter Pill: Unlike the indie rock band band from Massachusetts Winter pills, the Winter Pill is a winter pool chemical that combines enzymes, clarifier, stain fighters, and scale treatment into one set-it-and-forget-it pill. All you have to do is poke a hole in the the pill with the provided pin and drop it in the water. It does the rest of the work and slowly releases the solution throughout the winter. For both above and in-ground pools.
Pool Magic Spring and Fall + Phos-Free: Another popular winter pool treatment combines two of Natural Chemistry’s products, Pool Magic and Phos-Free. Pool Magic has enzymes specially designed to work best in cold water, and with a tremendous appetite for dirt, oil and grime. With the phosphate remover Phos-Free, algae will not have the nutrients it needs to grow in your pool as the water warms-up in Spring. Great for any pool owner, but especially useful for pools with mesh safety covers that allow fine particles and sunlight to sift through.
Ultimate Winterizing Pool Kit
Water Tubes: For in-ground pools without a safety cover, the humble water bag, or water tubes. It’s the pool product that everyone hates to buy, but every year you need to buy at least a six-pack of water tubes to replace those that pop holes. Double tubes are best, because they are still usable if one side gets a hole. Instead of water tubes, try Aqua Blocks, 3 ft long plastic water tubs with a snap-on lid. Don’t use bricks, blocks or lumber. Besides looking bad, it could damage your pool cover.
Cover Pumps: Solid winter covers have the added benefit of not allowing sunlight through, which can lead to an algae bloom, and they are not mesh so they prevent dirt, pollen and other unwanted debris from passing through as well. However, they also do not allow rain water or snow melt through either. Automatic cover pumps are activated when a small amount of water collects turning on to pump off the water, through an attached garden hose. Large cover pumps like the Aqua Pro 1/3 hp can also be used for lowering pool water level, draining hot tubs, boats or flooded basements.
A Wet/Dry Vac: Perhaps a Shop Vac isn't the first thing that pool owners think of when they think of pool supply necessities. No pool can be safely closed with water still in the lines, and no one wants to run the risk of burst or cracked plumbing due to water freezing. A large shop vac (5 HP) can be used to blow out skimmer and return lines. To blow out pool pipes best, and to force water out of main drain lines, use something like the Cyclone Vac to get enough air volume and pressure.
Covers, covers, and covers: For in-ground pools with solar cover reels, the Solar Reel Cover protects your solar blanket from sun and snow. It’s a cover for your cover! And using a Pool Heater Cover protects your heater from moisture, debris and critters. Cover the surface of diving boards to add years to its lifespan. Nobody wants to jump off a cracked and peeling board and a simple Diving Board Cover can keep that from happening.
The nation’s largest pool builders began offering a choice of a vacuum cleaner line, or the newer, pressure cleaner line. Anthony Pools installed thousands of “Antho-Sweep” cleaners, a private labeled Polaris 180.
Dig a Trench: After underground utilities are marked, trench from where the booster pump will be located on the equipment pad, to a point midway along the longest wall of the pool. From the edge of the deck to the pool, you can either go under the deck and through the pool wall, or over the deck hose installation.
